Counter-conditioning and Desensitisation

Counterconditioning and desensitisation are powerful ways to change behaviour.  They are usually used in combination.  Desensitisation provides a means of safely exposing the pet to the stimulus.  Counterconditioning is used to get the pet to perform the desired behaviour.

What is counter-conditioning?
Counterconditioning is teaching a different task or behaviour than the one that was previously occurring in a situation.  For example, a dog lunges at the window when the postman walks by.  The new task will be sitting quietly.  So, we “condition” a new response, sitting, that is “counter” to what the animal was doing previously, which was lunging.  In order to teach the new behaviour, practice the new task in a location and situation which does not stimulate the animal to engage in the behaviour you wish to change. Sometimes the term ‘countercommanding’ is used when the pet is commanded to perform a previously trained behaviour.  Instead of trying to get the dog to sit when the mailman comes by, practice getting the dog to sit by the window when no one is there.  The dog is better able to learn the new task without distractions, when the postman is not present.

What is desensitisation?
Desensitisation is a gradual exposure to situations or stimuli that would previously bring on the undesirable behaviour, but at a level so low that there is no negative response.  As the animal experiences the stimulus, but does not respond in the undesirable way, the animal becomes “less sensitive” to the stimulus, and the undesirable response is decreased.  The key to effective desensitisation is to design a stimulus gradient so that the pet can be gradually exposed to progressively more intense levels of the stimulus without the undesirable behaviour being elicited.

How might these techniques be used in a training situation?
Take the example of the postman.  Begin by getting the dog to sit quietly by the window.  Use food as a reward for the dog to respond, and as a reward for performance.  When the dog anticipates a food reward, the “mood” of the dog is usually happy, relaxed and not anxious or aggressive.  These are behaviours that are incompatible with the behaviour you wish to change, in this case lunging at the window at the postman.  This is counterconditioning.  It may take days or weeks for the dog to learn how to perform this task reliably on command.  During that time phase out food rewards so that the dog does the task equally well with or without food. Next, train the pet to perform the desired behaviour in the presence of the postman.  Desensitise the dog, by presenting the stimulus, the postman, at a low enough level so that the dog will still remain sitting and be relaxed, happy and not anxious or aggressive.  Start by having someone the dog knows, WHO IS NOT THE POSTMAN, walk by the window.  The dog gets to practice the good behaviour when it is easy.  Repeat this many times so that the dog does it reliably.  Gradually progress to stimuli that more closely resemble the real life situation.  Perhaps have the dog sit by the window when the postman is down the street.  If the dog could do this well several times, try when the postman is across the street.  It may be necessary to take the dog outside.  Proceed slowly, so that the dog learns how to perform the desired behaviour over and over before being challenged with the real thing, the postman delivering the mail to his door.

What are other ways to design a stimulus gradient for desensitisation?
In the example of the postman the stimulus gradient was to begin the training with a family member and then progress with the postman at varying distances.  Stimuli for desensitisation can be arranged from mildest to strongest in a number of ways.  For example, begin desensitisation from a distance and move progressively closer as the pet is successfully counterconditioned.  Sound stimuli can be presented in varying intensities from quietly to loud.  A pet that is fearful or aggressive toward a man with a beard might be desensitised to young boys, older boys, men with no beards, a family member with a costume beard, familiar men with beard costumes then men with beards.  Distance can also be varied.  Dogs that are aggressive or fearful as strangers arrive at the front door, could be desensitised and counterconditioned to the doorbell being rung by a family member, a family member arriving in a car, a family member walking up the front walkway, a stranger walking along the path in front of the home (while the dog remains in the doorway or on the porch), a familiar person entering the home, and finally a stranger at the front door.  In order for desensitisation and counterconditioning programs to be successful, it is necessary to have good control of the pet, a strongly motivating reward, good control of the stimulus, and a well-constructed desensitisation gradient.  A leash and head halter is often the best way of ensuring control over the dog.  Each session should be carefully planned.  Pets that are punished for inappropriate behaviour (fear, aggressive displays) during the retraining program will become more anxious in association with the stimulus.  Pets that are rewarded during the retraining program will get worse.  Owners that try to reassure their pets or calm them with food or toys, WHILE they are acting fearful, will reinforce the behaviour.  Also, whenever a pet can successfully threaten and the stimulus (person, other animal) retreats, the behaviour is further reinforced.

What are flooding and exposure techniques?
Another technique for reducing fearful behaviour is to continuously expose the pet to the stimulus until it settles down (habituates).  This technique will only work if the stimulus is not associated with any adverse consequence, and the pet is exposed for as long as is needed until the pet calms down.  Once the pet is exposed, the stimulus must not leave or be removed until the pet calms down.  Similarly the pet must not be removed or allowed to retreat until the pet habituates.  Once the pet settles, reinforcement can be given to ensure that the ultimate result is a positive association with the stimulus.  The pet must not be rewarded until it calms and settles down as this would serve to reward the fearful behaviour.  Owner intervention or punishment must not be utilised as this would lead to an unpleasant association with the stimulus.  Since exposure must continue until the pet settles down, flooding is most successful for fears that are not too intense.  Beginning with a somewhat lower or muted stimulus may be best.  In practice, keeping the pet in a cage or crate or keeping a dog on a leash and halter during exposure to the stimulus, will prevent escape and prevent injury to the stimulus (person or pet).  This technique is difficult to do successfully and should only be attempted with professional help.